Fourth-generation cheesemaker Javier and his wife Sonia make this teardrop-shaped cheese in the dairy next to their home in Lugo, Galicia. It’s a tiny operation with only 4 employees, and the care with which they make this award-winning cheese is very apparent. Javier waits until the end of the process to smoke the cheese with birch wood for up to 90 minutes. It develops a lovely caramel-colored exterior, a golden interior with tiny eyes, and a subtle smoked flavor. Javier says the aroma reminds his customers of a time gone by when their food was cooked over a wood-fired flame. We couldn’t agree more.